Walking around the area from Lymefield Garden Centre to Charlesworth and back again!
Lymefield Garden Centre, Farm Shop & Tea Room love providing our customers with fresh local food & plants for your home & garden! Now you can find ways to explore our surrounding areas with our walks from Lymefield.
Taking a walk around the Lymefield area is something that can be rewarding all year round. In the local woodland, you may be lucky enough to spot wildlife including an elusive deer population, a great bird population and plenty of British flora and trees.
Another perfect walk for all the family, including prams on a dry day, is the circular walk up to Charlesworth village and back again. Take pavements, trail paths and woodland trails, you can even take bikes, scooters and prams on this interesting walk.
Start at Lymefield Garden Centre, and turn left out of the gate across the front of Lymefield Terrace. Enter the Broad Mills Heritage area, (worth an explore for little ones) and follow the path past the duck pond, up to the right and round to the left past the remains of the big dyes works and fern garden. (Please explore the fern garden with care as these plants are delicate).
You will find yourself next to the river for 200 metres, the fast-flowing River Etherow, eventually joins the Mersey and empties into the Irish Sea. Climb the few steps up past the old mill works, through the kissing gate and over the narrow bridge. This bridge is perfect for a game of Pooh Sticks!
Follow the path up the hill through woodland and welcome to Derbyshire! The path ends next to a house where the road continues up the hill. Follow this hill up and up through the trees and onto the flat with views across to your left to Charlesworth, the Etherow Valley and onto the Peak District hills. Follow this road on, past a caravan park (on your right), turkeys in a garden (on your left), a menage (on your right), and on and up onto the main A626.
At the A626, turn left and you have reached Charlesworth Village. Follow this road past the park (great for a play), up the hill to the church on your left.
From here you can walk through the churchyard and round the school field to find yourself on Long Lane to head back down. Or simply head towards the pub (the George and Dragon) and turn left down the hill onto Long Lane.
Follow this road down and enjoy the views across to Broadbottom, Hyde and Werneth Low. Continue down the road until there is a dirt road off to the right, go along here past the trail entrance for Gamelsey Sidings. Follow the path down and turn left through the cycle gate and down the hill. Follow the purpose-built cycle/horse trail down the hill. It’s very steep as you get to the bends, and cross the Besthill pedestrian bridge. Don’t forget to look up at the railway viaduct above you!
On the other side of the bridge (back in Tameside), cross the road just after the traffic lights and take the track leading downhill with the river on the left. Not far down the track, a path leads off to the right into the Lymefield Heritage Centre area. Follow the paths past the wooden play area and up to the heritage centre (enjoy the little maze too). Head out of the car park and go down the road to Lymefield Garden Centre for a well-deserved cuppa and a slice of cake.
We hope you enjoyed your walk around the area of Lymefield. Please find more walks on our News page.
From all the team at Lymefield Garden Centre, Farm Shop and Tea Room.
Seed Potatoes have arrived in our garden centre this January.
They are the first thing to kickstart our thinking towards the new season of growing, a timely reminder during a usually barren month to get preparing for Spring. It is time to be looking to get prepared for planting your seed potatoes.
Building raised beds, improving the soil in existing beds with manure or compost, adding nutrients, and improving the drainage of borders will all help when planting time comes around.
Choosing Your Type of Seed Potatoes:
There are two main types of potato. Earlies and Maincrops.
The difference between the two is the time taken to reach the stage of harvesting.
The early varieties go into the ground first and will be ready to be lifted around June/July. Maincrop varieties will be planted around mid to late April and be ready for harvesting in August for immediate use, although potatoes being grown for storage over the following winter should be lifted from September to October.
If you have room enough to grow varieties of both types, you will be able to have potatoes throughout the summer and through to the next year if stored.
If space is limited, choose Early varieties for growing. Although they may not produce as large a yield as Maincrop potatoes, the fact that they can be harvested at a time when potato prices are higher, as well as taking up less space and missing the period most susceptible to blight means that they are the ideal choice.
Chitting Your Potatoes
If you have bought your Seed Potatoes nice and early, ‘chitting’ them is a way of giving them a great start. A few weeks before planting, usually around mid to late February, place your seed potatoes on an egg tray or a wooden tray. Then move them into a light (but not sunny) room, safe from frost. After 5 to 6 weeks they will have developed several shoots (chits) meaning that they have a good head start for when they are planted into the ground. For Early varieties especially, this is a vital process. The great thing about growing potatoes is that they will succeed in almost any type of soil. Having said this, there is no harm in trying to provide them with the best growing media possible, for the best possible results come harvest time.
Planting Your Seed Potatoes
When you are ready to plant your Seed Potatoes, dig a 10cm deep, V-shaped trench. Make sure that there is room to pile earth back on to the exposed tubers. The covering of the potatoes whilst in the ground is vital.
Guide to planting times:
Plant First Earlies and Salad Crops from March-April
Plant Second Earlies and Maincrops from April-May
For those of us in the north, it is usually best to wait a little later than March, until early April to plant First Earlies due to the colder weather.
Plant First Earlies, Second Earlies, and Salads are 30cm apart with 45cm between your rows.
Plant Maincrops between 35-40cm apart with 65cm between rows.
Firstly, in the early stages if there is a chance of frost or snow when chutes have begun to poke through the surface, draw some soil over them. The main bit of ‘maintenance’ to perform on your potatoes is known as ‘earthing up’. Green stems and leaves will grow up out of the ground from your potatoes and ‘earthing up’ is the process of drawing up a mound of soil along either side of these stems or ‘haulms’. It should be done when the haulms are around 9 inches in height. Use a hoe, and break up and loosen the soil between each row of potatoes, removing any weeds. Then draw the soil inwards towards each haulm creating a flat-topped ridge around 6 inches in height. Some people do this gradually over the season as the plants grow further, some just once. Either method is sufficient.
Earthing up not only helps to prevent weeds around your potatoes, but it also aids drainage. The biggest advantage though is that any sunlight exposure to the actual tubers themselves will turn them green thus making them poisonous. Be sure to water the potatoes liberally during any dry spells, especially once the tubers have started to form.
Harvesting Your Potatoes
Earlies – Wait until flowers have opened before examining the tubers. Do this by removing soil from a small part of the ridge. They are ready for harvesting as new potatoes when they are the size of hen’s eggs. Insert a flat-tined fork into the ridge well away from the haulm and lift the roots forward into the trench.
Maincrops – If you are storing your Maincrops, cut off the haulms once the foliage has turned brown and the stems have withered. Wait for 10 days before lifting the roots. Dry the tubers by laying them on the soil for a few hours after you have dug them up, then store them in a cool, frost-free, airy place away from direct sunlight. Sheds can be fine, but don’t leave them directly on the floor as they may get damp. Hessian and paper sacks are good for this but steer away from using plastic as this may cause them to sweat. Be sure to remove all tubers, however small, to avoid any problems the following season.
Potatoes Grown In The Container
Container growing is an easy method. Plant your seed potatoes about 10cm from the base of your container (multi-purpose compost will be fine for this, add well-rotted manure if you are feeling lavish), then add about the same amount of soil above them. As the plant grows, keep adding compost until you reach the top of your container then allow the plant to grow normally. As a rough guide, it is recommended that 2 seed potatoes be planted in a container of 40cm depth and 40cm diameter, so use this as a basis for how many you will plant.
In Winter, there is no better place for new ideas than by going on a walk outside your door.
At Lymefield Garden Centre, we are lucky to find ourselves surrounded by woodland trails, river walks and hillside rambles which are just waiting to be explored.
Take a walk around the area near Lymefield & there is something rewarding to be found, regardless of the time of year. There is fantastic wildlife including an elusive deer population, a great bird population and plenty of British flora and many trees. Creating sights of outstanding natural beauty which every path you take.
A single route from Lymefield Garden Centre is the Broadbottom Circular walk.
This route takes in the very best of Broadbottom, from the lowland areas where we find ourselves here at Lymefield Garden Centre, alongside the River Etherow, up to the higher points where the whole valley can be admired.
The walk starts and finishes at Lymefield,
It begins through the Broad Mills heritage area and onto Summerbottom (don’t cross the bridge, go up the path with the handrail and turn left down Hodge Lane before turning back up the hill into Great Wood. Under the railway bridge and climb up to Hurst Clough. Cross Broadbottom Road and past the new houses on the ‘The Waggon’ pub site. Go up the road to Littlemoor Road. Cross a few stiles onto Pingot Lane and pass oak trees to Hague Road. Follow this road all the way back to Gorsey Brow, turn left onto the main road and go down the hill to Lymefield. For full details
click here for a downloadable descriptive path and map for this walk – and happy walking!
For more information about the Broadbottom and Tameside countryside, take a look at this helpful page over on Tameside Council’s website.
From all the team at Lymefield Garden Centre, Farm Shop & Tea Room, we hope you enjoy this walk.
Lymefield Farm Shop have created food boxes from our locally sourced products covering basic need to meal deals. These food boxes contain everything you need and can now be delivered to your door!
Whether its a pizza box, a cheese & biscuit box, or a boozy box, Lymefield have you covered with their range of food boxes. All of our food boxes can be collected from the Farm Shop when ordered online but now these food boxes can be delivered home to you. Minimum spend for delivery: £25.
Postcode for your Lymefield Delivery
Depending on your postcode, order your box and your Lymefield food will be delivered to your door.
Our team is out delivering Wednesday & Thursday within the local area. Each local postcode will have deliveries on a specific day as detailed below. Other postcodes will be accommodated when contacting the food delivery team direct at email@example.com.
We cover all postcodes with our Local and National Delivery Service for all our bulk bag products. Delivery costs vary depending on Postcodes.
The Lymefield team provides a local delivery service Monday – Saturday.
Our deliveries are fulfilled by using HGV trucks with a HiAb crane.
Local delivery onlyavailable when total order is over £35.
Our team will use a HiAb crane to manoeuver your goods as close as possible to your desired position.
Covering Glossop, Tameside, Oldham, Stockport, Manchester, Trafford, and Buxton – our local delivery service covers lots of postcodes to these areas.
Obstructions can cause delays and where the site is completely inaccessible, delivery of these bulk items will not be possible.
Delivery is not possible on Saturday afternoon or Sundays.
If you have specific delivery requirements, please provide them in the Comments Box at Checkout. Alternatively, you can contact us on 01457 764686 or firstname.lastname@example.org.
Our bulk bag products can also be delivered by nationwide Monday – Friday. Contact our team if you require a delivery outside the Greater Manchester/Derbyshire area.
Our deliveries will be fulfilled by a courier service.
All nationwide orders must be over £35 to qualify for the courier service.
The courier service will deliver to your kerbside. The driver will be able to move the pallet to a safe location using a pallet truck but will be unable to move the goods over uneven terrain (e.g. gravel or grass) or up a substantial slope.
Delivery is not possible on Saturdays or Sundays.
If you have specific delivery instructions, please use the Comment Box at Checkout. Alternatively, you can contact us on 01457 764686 or email@example.com.
Meet the Meat!
Our Butcher’s Counter is a meat-lover’s paradise! But where does all of our meat come from?
We source as much of our meat as possible from local farms, through a fully traceable supply chain, allowing us to prioritise the quality of the meat and support local farming communities.
Our lamb is born and reared on Lymefield Farm and the surrounding hillside using traditional stockmanship methods. We rear Texal crosses – a lean-meat breed that is popular across Europe. Depending on the time of year, we sell spring lamb, yearling lamb and – rarely – hogget. We rear in tune with the local climate, so our spring lamb is usually ready from June.
Our cattle come from a small-scale, local farm in Chisworth, less than a mile up the road! The farmer exclusively rears Beef Shorthorn, an English beef cattle breed developed from the original Shorthorn around 1820. They are reared traditionally, and graze freely in the local pasture, up to 1,150 feet above sea level.
Our pork is sourced from the same farm. Dependent upon the weather, the pigs are reared both outside and inside, providing ample space to explore. When inside, they are bedded on deep straw and have access to the entire barn.
None of our animals travel longer than 16 miles (just 30 minutes) to slaughter and are taken in small batches to keep stress to a minimum. We use a small-scale, family-run abattoir in Buxton, ensuring higher standards of welfare, clear traceability, and lower food miles.
Roses are amongst the most beautiful flowering shrubs grown in our gardens, bearing blooms which, though many and varied in shape and scent, can all be agreed to positively ooze class and elegance. Unfortunately, they’re also amongst the plants most likely to be oozing with sticky sap, spattered with powdery splotches of mildew, or cheerfully festooned with browning, soggy blooms, like so many broken Christmas lights.
If you’ve ever had roses in your garden, I’m sure you’ll know the pain of trying to nurture a favourite rose through a dizzying array of different illnesses in the (often vain) hope that it will put on a good show in spite of a wet summer. The first Gardeners’ World Awards, held in 2009, summed up the frustration of growing roses, with the embattled plants topping the “Most Loved” and the “Most Hated” categories of the gardening poll!
Here at Lymefield, we want to help you to get the most out of your roses, both new and old. Rosescanbe very easy to look after, and their versatility and old-fashioned charm, like a tailored suit, make them an indispensable addition to the garden. The real challenge to growing roses is pinning down quite what the problem is, so to help get you started, we’ve compiled a shortlist of some of the most common problems affecting roses in the garden, with a view to explaining what to look for, why it happens, and how you can keep it from happening again.
So without further ado, here’s Lymefield’s Most [Un]Wanted: Rose Pests & Diseases.
I can see little green insects on my rose!
What it looks like
Hungry droves of tiny green (or black) insects cluster under leaves or swamp the vulnerable top-growth of the rose bush. The adult bugs may have wings, depending on species. You might find your buds and foliage covered in a sticky substance that the insects secrete.
Why it happens
These insects are aphids (sometimes known as greenfly or blackfly), an extraordinarily successful group of sap-sucking insects that are capable of rapidly reproducing throughout the year by a process known asparthenogenesis (‘virgin birth’), through which a female aphid can reproduce without the need of a male. This means that a single aphid landing on a new host plant can give birth to literally thousands of new aphids over the course of the growing season. Some aphid species can even give birth to live young that are already pregnant with the next generation!
Unfortunately, with all of those tiny sucking mouthparts to feed, plant health is affected. The main things to watch out for are:
Reduced growth and vigour
Tender new shoots that wilt or new buds that bear curled, warped leaves in heavy infestations
Secondary infections, such as the spread of unsightly black sooty moulds over the sticky honeydew or frass produced by the aphids
How you can keep it from happening again
A spring and summer infestation of aphids ought to be added to Benjamin Franklin’s famous idiom, ‘…nothing can be said to be certain, except death, taxes,and aphids’. To preserve your sanity, it’s easiest to accept that there will always be aphids present somewhere in your garden (even over winter, although usually as eggs), and they will always ultimately converge on your roses when the opportunity presents itself. However, there are still a variety of options available to treat or reduce infestations:
Try growingnasturtiums orcosmos as sacrificial plants – plants that are so irresistible to pests like aphids that their presence as a food source might reduce the burden on your roses. Nasturtiums and cosmos are available as part of our bedding range in the Garden Centre.
Aphids aren’t very fast, so they’re very easy tosquash by hand. If you’d rather not be caught green-handed and sticky by a vengeful giant aphid (nb: currently unknown to science), then a variety of gardening gloves are available to buy in the Garden Centre, to help you hide the evidence.
Soapy water in a spray bottle can put a dent in aphid numbers, as it seems to either suffocate the hapless bugs or disrupt their cell membranes. The liquid solution has to coat the insects themselves, and it doesn’t last long, so there’s slightly less risk of affecting beneficial insects like pollinators or predators. Spray bottles are available in the Garden Centre.
A systemic insecticide can be applied to the plant, rather than the aphids specifically. Aphids feeding on your roses will die, and the plants will remain toxic to future generations of aphids (reapplication may be necessary). Probably best reserved for extreme outbreaks, as the solution is also toxic to pollinators.
My rose has black spots on its leaves!
What it looks like
Black lesions appear on the leaves in spring, often fringed with yellow. Leaves are readily shed, and unsightly black, textured scabs can also appear on the stems in more severe infections.
Why it happens
Ah, the creatively-titled Rose black spot. Much like the Black Spot ofTreasure Island, this fungal infection is met with dread by gardeners, but fortunately, the similarities stop there, as the disease is rarely fatal. The spores colonise new parts of the plant by wind and by rain-splash (whereby water hits infected leaves and splashes across uninfected areas of the plant). The loss of leaves in severe infections can greatly reduce the vigour of the plant.
How you can keep it from happening again
Black spot is often credited with the decline in popularity of the English rose garden. It spreads rapidly from rose to rose, and many strains ofDiplocarpon rosae (the fungus responsible) exist, making treatment difficult. However, a good treatment regime might include:
Carefully remove all infected plant matter, including leaves and stems. Where a rose has many stem lesions and plant health is already so poor that it is unlikely to withstand a hard prune, then disposal of the plant may be necessary. Secateurs and hard-wearing leather gloves are available in the Garden Centre for particularly thorny encounters.
Mulch around the plants with manure every spring, improving plant vigour and smothering fallen leaves to prevent the spread of spores.
Choose a resistant rose variety! Whilst far from immune, disease-resistant cultivars such as‘Sexy Rexy’, and ‘Loving Memory’ promise less of an uphill battle against fungal infection.
Avoid monoculture (where only one kind of plant is grown, as in a rose garden), and incorporate your rose into a mixed planting with a variety of herbaceous perennials such as Salvias, Geraniums and Foxgloves. A beautiful and savvy solution!
A systemic fungicide will protect plants for up to 3 weeks, and will also control for other fungal infections. Water or spray on to the plant according to the recommended dosage.
There are tiny orange spots on my rose plant’s leaves!
What it looks like
Plants show yellow lesions or splotches on the surface of leaves. On the underside of the leaf, below the yellow lesions, are the telltale mounds of powdery orange spores. The infection can also warp young stems and gird them with the same orange dust.
Why it happens
Older rose varieties are more commonly infected by Rose rust fungus than newer, more resistant varieties. Outbreaks are most likely to occur in cool, wet spells. Whilst rose rust is less common than black spot, its resting spores can overwinter on objects other than the plant itself, such as fences and the soil surface. These spores are spread by wind and rain splash.
How you can keep it from happening again
Rose rust infections are unlikely to cause serious injury to a plant, but they are unsightly and in some extreme cases, a rose may have to be replaced. Treatment is largely the same as for black spot, so refer to the advice above. We’ve generally found that cultivars that are resistant to black spot hardly seem to develop rose rust at all, but we might just be lucky!
British Food Fortnight has a special place in our hearts at Lymefield!
We absolutely love our local food heroes and are always shouting about their delicious produce that we sell in our Farm Shop. What better way than to join in the national celebration of British Food Fortnight?
British Food Fortnight is an initiative by Love British Food who is the leading national campaign for promoting british food. British Food Fortnight is the national celebration of our local food that takes place this year from 19th September until 4th October 2020.
At Lymefield, we have been shouting about our local food since we opened 10 years ago. We love selling their produce in our Farm Shop, using them in our Tea Room and promoting them during our food festivals and ‘try-before-you-buy’ events.
We are very proud that all our local meat is fully traceable and our lamb, beef and pork is reared with 2 miles of Lymefield in Broadbottom including using our fields to rear the meat.
Our Farm Shop is stocked from floor to ceiling with food from our local food producers including DoughItYourself based in Stockport, Cowburns Bakery from High Lane, & Longley Dairy for starters. The Farm Shop team love their food and will happily talk to you about our produce all day long! The Tea Room chefs use our local produce in all their meals creating delicious mouthwatering specials alongside our fantastic menu. Our high quality produce enables our chefs to shine whilst they whip up another delicacy!
Our website stocks food boxes for delivery or collection showcasing lots of these products from fresh food to our local food heroes.
We hope you can read our passion for local food so we are open 7 days a week and we even free parking.
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