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Bunting Family Activity

Union Jack flags cut in the triangle shape of bunting

Design your own Jubilee bunting for Lymefield Garden Centre!

Download our Bunting template and instructions here.

To celebrate Queen Elizabeth II Platinum Jubilee, we are inviting you to create a piece of jubilee bunting and add it to our string in the Tea Room.

The theme for the bunting is the Queen’s Jubilee so be as creative as you can to make the most amazing bunting!

Please post, email info@lymefield.com or bring your designs to Lymefield by Wednesday 1st June.

Looking forward to receiving your bunting to create a beautiful display of your colourful work for all to see!

 

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Lymefield to Charlesworth Walk

Walking around the area from Lymefield Garden Centre to Charlesworth and back again!

Lymefield Garden Centre, Farm Shop & Tea Room love providing our customers with fresh local food & plants for your home & garden! Now you can find ways to explore our surrounding areas with our walks from Lymefield.

Taking a walk around the Lymefield area is something that can be rewarding all year round. In the local woodland, you may be lucky enough to spot wildlife including an elusive deer population, a great bird population and plenty of British flora and trees.

Another perfect walk for all the family, including prams on a dry day, is the circular walk up to Charlesworth village and back again. Take pavements, trail paths and woodland trails, you can even take bikes, scooters and prams on this interesting walk.

Start at Lymefield Garden Centre, and turn left out of the gate across the front of Lymefield Terrace. Enter the Broad Mills Heritage area, (worth an explore for little ones) and follow the path past the duck pond, up to the right and round to the left past the remains of the big dyes works and fern garden. (Please explore the fern garden with care as these plants are delicate).

You will find yourself next to the river for 200 metres, the fast-flowing River Etherow, eventually joins the Mersey and empties into the Irish Sea. Climb the few steps up past the old mill works, through the kissing gate and over the narrow bridge. This bridge is perfect for a game of Pooh Sticks!

Follow the path up the hill through woodland and welcome to Derbyshire! The path ends next to a house where the road continues up the hill. Follow this hill up and up through the trees and onto the flat with views across to your left to Charlesworth, the Etherow Valley and onto the Peak District hills. Follow this road on, past a caravan park (on your right), turkeys in a garden (on your left), a menage (on your right), and on and up onto the main A626.

At the A626, turn left and you have reached Charlesworth Village. Follow this road past the park (great for a play), up the hill to the church on your left.

From here you can walk through the churchyard and round the school field to find yourself on Long Lane to head back down. Or simply head towards the pub (the George and Dragon) and turn left down the hill onto Long Lane.

Follow this road down and enjoy the views across to Broadbottom, Hyde and Werneth Low. Continue down the road until there is a dirt road off to the right, go along here past the trail entrance for Gamelsey Sidings. Follow the path down and turn left through the cycle gate and down the hill. Follow the purpose-built cycle/horse trail down the hill. It’s very steep as you get to the bends, and cross the Besthill pedestrian bridge. Don’t forget to look up at the railway viaduct above you!

On the other side of the bridge (back in Tameside), cross the road just after the traffic lights and take the track leading downhill with the river on the left. Not far down the track, a path leads off to the right into the Lymefield Heritage Centre area. Follow the paths past the wooden play area and up to the heritage centre (enjoy the little maze too). Head out of the car park and go down the road to Lymefield Garden Centre for a well-deserved cuppa and a slice of cake.

We hope you enjoyed your walk around the area of Lymefield. Please find more walks on our News page.

From all the team at Lymefield Garden Centre, Farm Shop and Tea Room.

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Growing your Potatoes from seed potatoes

Seed Potatoes are the key!

Seed Potatoes have arrived in our garden centre this January.

They are the first thing to kickstart our thinking towards the new season of growing, a timely reminder during a usually barren month to get preparing for Spring. It is time to be looking to get prepared for planting your seed potatoes.

Building raised beds, improving the soil in existing beds with manure or compost, adding nutrients, and improving the drainage of borders will all help when planting time comes around.

Choosing Your Type of Seed Potatoes:

There are two main types of potato. Earlies and Maincrops.

The difference between the two is the time taken to reach the stage of harvesting.

The early varieties go into the ground first and will be ready to be lifted around June/July. Maincrop varieties will be planted around mid to late April and be ready for harvesting in August for immediate use, although potatoes being grown for storage over the following winter should be lifted from September to October.

If you have room enough to grow varieties of both types, you will be able to have potatoes throughout the summer and through to the next year if stored.

If space is limited, choose Early varieties for growing. Although they may not produce as large a yield as Maincrop potatoes, the fact that they can be harvested at a time when potato prices are higher, as well as taking up less space and missing the period most susceptible to blight means that they are the ideal choice.

Chitting Your Potatoes

If you have bought your Seed Potatoes nice and early, ‘chitting’ them is a way of giving them a great start. A few weeks before planting, usually around mid to late February, place your seed potatoes on an egg tray or a wooden tray. Then move them into a light (but not sunny) room, safe from frost. After 5 to 6 weeks they will have developed several shoots (chits) meaning that they have a good head start for when they are planted into the ground. For Early varieties especially, this is a vital process. The great thing about growing potatoes is that they will succeed in almost any type of soil. Having said this, there is no harm in trying to provide them with the best growing media possible, for the best possible results come harvest time.

Planting Your Seed Potatoes

When you are ready to plant your Seed Potatoes, dig a 10cm deep, V-shaped trench. Make sure that there is room to pile earth back on to the exposed tubers. The covering of the potatoes whilst in the ground is vital.

Guide to planting times:

Plant First Earlies and Salad Crops from March-April

Plant Second Earlies and Maincrops from April-May

For those of us in the north, it is usually best to wait a little later than March, until early April to plant First Earlies due to the colder weather.

Planting Distances

Plant First Earlies, Second Earlies, and Salads are 30cm apart with 45cm between your rows.

Plant Maincrops between 35-40cm apart with 65cm between rows.

Maintenance

Firstly, in the early stages if there is a chance of frost or snow when chutes have begun to poke through the surface, draw some soil over them. The main bit of ‘maintenance’ to perform on your potatoes is known as ‘earthing up’. Green stems and leaves will grow up out of the ground from your potatoes and ‘earthing up’ is the process of drawing up a mound of soil along either side of these stems or ‘haulms’. It should be done when the haulms are around 9 inches in height. Use a hoe, and break up and loosen the soil between each row of potatoes, removing any weeds. Then draw the soil inwards towards each haulm creating a flat-topped ridge around 6 inches in height. Some people do this gradually over the season as the plants grow further, some just once. Either method is sufficient.

Earthing up not only helps to prevent weeds around your potatoes, but it also aids drainage. The biggest advantage though is that any sunlight exposure to the actual tubers themselves will turn them green thus making them poisonous. Be sure to water the potatoes liberally during any dry spells, especially once the tubers have started to form.

Harvesting Your Potatoes

Earlies – Wait until flowers have opened before examining the tubers. Do this by removing soil from a small part of the ridge. They are ready for harvesting as new potatoes when they are the size of hen’s eggs. Insert a flat-tined fork into the ridge well away from the haulm and lift the roots forward into the trench.

Maincrops – If you are storing your Maincrops, cut off the haulms once the foliage has turned brown and the stems have withered. Wait for 10 days before lifting the roots. Dry the tubers by laying them on the soil for a few hours after you have dug them up, then store them in a cool, frost-free, airy place away from direct sunlight. Sheds can be fine, but don’t leave them directly on the floor as they may get damp. Hessian and paper sacks are good for this but steer away from using plastic as this may cause them to sweat. Be sure to remove all tubers, however small, to avoid any problems the following season.

Potatoes Grown In The Container

Container growing is an easy method. Plant your seed potatoes about 10cm from the base of your container (multi-purpose compost will be fine for this, add well-rotted manure if you are feeling lavish), then add about the same amount of soil above them. As the plant grows, keep adding compost until you reach the top of your container then allow the plant to grow normally. As a rough guide, it is recommended that 2 seed potatoes be planted in a container of 40cm depth and 40cm diameter, so use this as a basis for how many you will plant.

For any more help or advice get in touch via our contact page, come into the Garden Centre or ring us on 01457 764686.

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RSPB Birdwatch 2022

RSPB birdwatch takes place this January!

28th -30th January 2022

Take part in the biggest count of the UK’s bird population with the RSPB. Sign up to the RSPB birdwatch to help find out how many visitors you get to your piece of nature.

Stock up on your bird food and accessories at Lymefield so you and your winged visitors are ready for the big count. There are plenty of choices of bird food from seeds to fat balls. You can find the best bird feeders online for all the birds. Instore you will discover the full range of accessories for feeding and caring for birds. Happy counting this January!

Find all your wildlife needs here from Lymefield Garden Centre!

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Bulk Bags Delivered to your Door – Local & Nationwide!

Bulk Bags Delivered to your Door!

Lymefield Garden Centre can deliver bulk bags of Topsoil, Paving, Decorative Gravels, Building Aggregates, Bark, Manure, Kiln Dried Logs & Lymefield Turf locally and nationwide.

We cover all postcodes with our Local and National Delivery Service for all our bulk bag products. Delivery costs vary depending on Postcodes.

LOCAL DELIVERY

The Lymefield team provides a local delivery service Monday – Saturday.

  • Our deliveries are fulfilled by using HGV trucks with a HiAb crane.
  • Local delivery onlyavailable when total order is over £35.
  • Our team will use a HiAb crane to manoeuver your goods as close as possible to your desired position.
  • Covering Glossop, Tameside, Oldham, Stockport, Manchester, Trafford, and Buxton – our local delivery service covers lots of postcodes to these areas.
  • Obstructions can cause delays and where the site is completely inaccessible, delivery of these bulk items will not be possible.
  • Delivery is not possible on Saturday afternoon or Sundays.
  • If you have specific delivery requirements, please provide them in the Comments Box at Checkout. Alternatively, you can contact us on 01457 764686 or info@lymefield.com.

Nationwide Delivery

Our bulk bag products can also be delivered by nationwide Monday – Friday. Contact our team if you require a delivery outside the Greater Manchester/Derbyshire area.

  • Our deliveries will be fulfilled by a courier service.
  • All nationwide orders must be over £35 to qualify for the courier service.
  • The courier service will deliver to your kerbside. The driver will be able to move the pallet to a safe location using a pallet truck but will be unable to move the goods over uneven terrain (e.g. gravel or grass) or up a substantial slope.
  • Delivery is not possible on Saturdays or Sundays.
  • If you have specific delivery instructions, please use the Comment Box at Checkout. Alternatively, you can contact us on 01457 764686 or info@lymefield.com.
 
 

Postcodes for Nationwide Delivery

 Delivery cost per bulk bagPostcodes
2£43.88 B, BB, BD, BL, BS, CB, CH, CV, CW, DE, DN, DY, GL, HD, HG, HP, HX, L, LE, LS, LU, MK, NG, NN, PR, S, ST, SY(1-6), TF, WA, WF, WN, WR, WS, WV
3£54.15 E, EC, N, NW, SE, W, WC
3a£55.89 SW
4£51.70 DA, EN, HA, IG, RM, SL, TW, UB, WD
5£47.80 AL, CM, CO, DH, FY, HR, HU, IP, LN, ME, NE, NP, NR, OX, PE, PO(1-29, 42+), RG, SG, SN, SP, SR, SS, TS
5a£49.55 RH
6£56.68 BA, BH, BR, CF, CR, CT, DL, KT, LA, SM, TA, TN(8-16), YO
7£61.60 BN,CA, DG, DT, EH, EX, FK, G, GU, KA(1-26,29,30), KY, LD, LL, ML, PL, SA, SY(7+), TD, TN (1-7,17+), TQ, TR
8£96.00 BT
9£83.32 DD, PH(1-4, 14)
11£83.63 AB(10-25,30, 39), PH (5-13, 15,18)
12£83.63 AB(26-29, 31-38, 40+), IV (12,13,30-32,36)
13£89.98 IV(1-11, 14-29, 33-35, 63), KW(1-14), PH(19-40, 49-50)
15£113.75 PO(30-41) ISLE OF WIGHT
16£158.15 IM (ISLE OF MAN)
17£145.46 KA27
18£149.26 IV(40-56), KA28, PA(20,41-80), PH(41-44)
19£164.48 GY(1-8), JE
20£192.38 HS, KW(15-17), ZE
21£265.93 GY(9-10) ALDERNEY & SARK
22£107.42 PA(34-38)
23£102.65 PA(21-33
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About Us

The Pryce family has run a business on the banks of the River Etherow in Broadbottom for nearly 80 years and 4 generations, evolving from a small dairy farm and plant nursery popular with locals to create a thriving Garden Centre, Farm Shop, and Tea Room. Lymefield remains owned by the family with Robert and David Pryce running the business side by side.

We’re proud to say that throughout our long history, we’ve focused on doing one thing really well: providing local goods and services with a personal touch to our local community.


Our Farm Shop source much of its food from local producers and we love to shout out our local food heroes. The Butcher’s counter sources their pork & beef from local farmers in Chisworth and their mutton & lamb from our own flock. Our Deli Counter is bursting with local & British cheeses, meats, and Lymefield products and our shelves & fridges stock the best quality ingredients for your kitchen.

If we can’t source it locally, we source it regionally, with an emphasis on artisan produce that captures the flavour and feel of where it comes from.


The Tea Room sources all its meat, vegetables, and many other items from the Farm Shop to create imaginative and delicious specials to accompany our menu favourites! Our daily specials are created to show the range of our Farm Shop produce while our favourites of excellent cakes, pies and sandwiches remain a constant on our menu.

In our Garden centre, the plants are also ‘local’ in a sense – our selection is hand-picked for hardiness in the face of the worst weather that the North West can throw at us! There is always a colourful display of seasonal plants on outside our doors, with an abundance of plants in our Glasshouse from spring until summer. Our plant range includes acers, fruit trees, roses, buxus, ilex plus many many pots!

We have a well-established delivery service, delivering our local orders ourselves. Lymefield loves to throw an event; it gives all the team great pride to work with local charities throughout the year to host many events at Lymefield to aid our local community.


We pride ourselves on our friendly service, and our whole team would be delighted to hear from you, whatever the need, want, or problem!

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Guide to Rose health

Roses are amongst the most beautiful flowering shrubs grown in our gardens, bearing blooms which, though many and varied in shape and scent, can all be agreed to positively ooze class and elegance. Unfortunately, they’re also amongst the plants most likely to be oozing with sticky sap, spattered with powdery splotches of mildew, or cheerfully festooned with browning, soggy blooms, like so many broken Christmas lights.

If you’ve ever had roses in your garden, I’m sure you’ll know the pain of trying to nurture a favourite rose through a dizzying array of different illnesses in the (often vain) hope that it will put on a good show in spite of a wet summer. The first Gardeners’ World Awards, held in 2009, summed up the frustration of growing roses, with the embattled plants topping the “Most Loved” and the “Most Hated” categories of the gardening poll!

Here at Lymefield, we want to help you to get the most out of your roses, both new and old. Rosescanbe very easy to look after, and their versatility and old-fashioned charm, like a tailored suit, make them an indispensable addition to the garden. The real challenge to growing roses is pinning down quite what the problem is, so to help get you started, we’ve compiled a shortlist of some of the most common problems affecting roses in the garden, with a view to explaining what to look for, why it happens, and how you can keep it from happening again.

So without further ado, here’s Lymefield’s Most [Un]Wanted: Rose Pests & Diseases.


I can see little green insects on my rose!

What it looks like

Hungry droves of tiny green (or black) insects cluster under leaves or swamp the vulnerable top-growth of the rose bush. The adult bugs may have wings, depending on species. You might find your buds and foliage covered in a sticky substance that the insects secrete.

Why it happens

These insects are aphids (sometimes known as greenfly or blackfly), an extraordinarily successful group of sap-sucking insects that are capable of rapidly reproducing throughout the year by a process known asparthenogenesis (‘virgin birth’), through which a female aphid can reproduce without the need of a male. This means that a single aphid landing on a new host plant can give birth to literally thousands of new aphids over the course of the growing season. Some aphid species can even give birth to live young that are already pregnant with the next generation!

Unfortunately, with all of those tiny sucking mouthparts to feed, plant health is affected. The main things to watch out for are:

  • Reduced growth and vigour
  • Tender new shoots that wilt or new buds that bear curled, warped leaves in heavy infestations
  • Secondary infections, such as the spread of unsightly black sooty moulds over the sticky honeydew or frass produced by the aphids

How you can keep it from happening again

A spring and summer infestation of aphids ought to be added to Benjamin Franklin’s famous idiom, ‘…nothing can be said to be certain, except death, taxes,and aphids’. To preserve your sanity, it’s easiest to accept that there will always be aphids present somewhere in your garden (even over winter, although usually as eggs), and they will always ultimately converge on your roses when the opportunity presents itself. However, there are still a variety of options available to treat or reduce infestations:

            Organic Solutions:

  • Try growingnasturtiums orcosmos as sacrificial plants – plants that are so irresistible to pests like aphids that their presence as a food source might reduce the burden on your roses. Nasturtiums and cosmos are available as part of our bedding range in the Garden Centre.
  • Aphids aren’t very fast, so they’re very easy tosquash by hand. If you’d rather not be caught green-handed and sticky by a vengeful giant aphid (nb: currently unknown to science), then a variety of gardening gloves are available to buy in the Garden Centre, to help you hide the evidence.
  • Soapy water in a spray bottle can put a dent in aphid numbers, as it seems to either suffocate the hapless bugs or disrupt their cell membranes. The liquid solution has to coat the insects themselves, and it doesn’t last long, so there’s slightly less risk of affecting beneficial insects like pollinators or predators. Spray bottles are available in the Garden Centre.

Chemical Solutions:

  • A systemic insecticide can be applied to the plant, rather than the aphids specifically. Aphids feeding on your roses will die, and the plants will remain toxic to future generations of aphids (reapplication may be necessary). Probably best reserved for extreme outbreaks, as the solution is also toxic to pollinators.

My rose has black spots on its leaves!

What it looks like

Black lesions appear on the leaves in spring, often fringed with yellow. Leaves are readily shed, and unsightly black, textured scabs can also appear on the stems in more severe infections.

Why it happens

Ah, the creatively-titled Rose black spot. Much like the Black Spot ofTreasure Island, this fungal infection is met with dread by gardeners, but fortunately, the similarities stop there, as the disease is rarely fatal. The spores colonise new parts of the plant by wind and by rain-splash (whereby water hits infected leaves and splashes across uninfected areas of the plant). The loss of leaves in severe infections can greatly reduce the vigour of the plant.

How you can keep it from happening again

Black spot is often credited with the decline in popularity of the English rose garden. It spreads rapidly from rose to rose, and many strains ofDiplocarpon rosae (the fungus responsible) exist, making treatment difficult. However, a good treatment regime might include:

           Organic Solutions

  • Carefully remove all infected plant matter, including leaves and stems. Where a rose has many stem lesions and plant health is already so poor that it is unlikely to withstand a hard prune, then disposal of the plant may be necessary. Secateurs and hard-wearing leather gloves are available in the Garden Centre for particularly thorny encounters.
  • Mulch around the plants with manure every spring, improving plant vigour and smothering fallen leaves to prevent the spread of spores.
  • Choose a resistant rose variety! Whilst far from immune, disease-resistant cultivars such as‘Sexy Rexy’, and ‘Loving Memory’ promise less of an uphill battle against fungal infection.
  • Avoid monoculture (where only one kind of plant is grown, as in a rose garden), and incorporate your rose into a mixed planting with a variety of herbaceous perennials such as Salvias, Geraniums and Foxgloves. A beautiful and savvy solution!

Chemical Solutions

  • A systemic fungicide will protect plants for up to 3 weeks, and will also control for other fungal infections. Water or spray on to the plant according to the recommended dosage.

There are tiny orange spots on my rose plant’s leaves!

What it looks like

Plants show yellow lesions or splotches on the surface of leaves. On the underside of the leaf, below the yellow lesions, are the telltale mounds of powdery orange spores. The infection can also warp young stems and gird them with the same orange dust.

Why it happens

Older rose varieties are more commonly infected by Rose rust fungus than newer, more resistant varieties. Outbreaks are most likely to occur in cool, wet spells. Whilst rose rust is less common than black spot, its resting spores can overwinter on objects other than the plant itself, such as fences and the soil surface. These spores are spread by wind and rain splash.

How you can keep it from happening again

Rose rust infections are unlikely to cause serious injury to a plant, but they are unsightly and in some extreme cases, a rose may have to be replaced. Treatment is largely the same as for black spot, so refer to the advice above. We’ve generally found that cultivars that are resistant to black spot hardly seem to develop rose rust at all, but we might just be lucky!


I don’t actually have any roses!

What it looks like

A gaping hole where a rose ought to be.

Why it happens

Cowardice.

How you can keep it from happening again

 *Ahem*

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ORDERS AND DELIVERY AT LYMEFIELD

Lymefield Ordering Processes

Thank you so much for your loyal custom, support, and patience as we continue to provide local produce and goods to our community. Our Garden Centre, Farm Shop & Tea Room remain open 7 days a week and safe operating practices are in place.

There are three ways to order at Lymefield: online, email or by phone – these are explained in full below.

NB: There are only two phone lines so please be patient while you answer your call.

Online order process

  • You can order anything listed online
  • Place your order at www.lymefield.com
  • Your order will be processed
  • You will receive a call back within 48 hours to confirm your collection or delivery date

Collections: You will come to Lymefield on your assigned collection date and time slot. Please park in one of our designated collection bays where your goods will be brought to your car by a member of staff. You will then be required to load your items yourself.

Deliveries: Your order will be delivered on the date given to you by a member of our team. There is a delivery charge for local addresses for your order: £4 for Farm Shop orders and £4 for Garden Centre/Landscaping/WinterFuels orders. A courier nationwide delivery service is available for pallet items such as bulk bags of topsoil.

Email order process for Garden Centre Products ONLY

  • Email your order to orders@lymefield.com  with Garden Order and Collection/Delivery as your subject heading. (You won’t receive an automatic response to confirm we have received it, please trust that we have.)

Ensure you include:

  1. Name
  2. Address
  3. Telephone number
  4. You can include a preferred collection/delivery date; however, it cannot be guaranteed
  • You will receive a call back within 48 hours to confirm your collection or delivery date.
  • Payment will be taken via card during the call.

Collections: You will come to Lymefield on your assigned collection date and time slot. Please park in one of our designated collection bays where your goods will be brought to your car by a member of staff. You will then be required to load your items yourself. 

Deliveries: Your order will be delivered on the date given to you by a member of our team. There is a delivery charge for your order: £4 for Garden Centre/Landscaping/WinterFuels orders. A courier nationwide delivery service is available for pallet items such as bulk bags of topsoil.

Phone order process for Garden Centre Products ONLY

At Lymefield we have two phone lines, please bear with us as we want to receive your call.

  • Phone 01457 764686 please prepare your order prior to your call. Use our website to browse your items.
  • You will be given a date for collection/delivery.
  • Payment will be taken via card during the call.

Collections: You will come to Lymefield on your assigned collection date and time slot. Please park in one of our designated collection bays where your goods will be brought to your car by a member of staff. You will then be required to load your items yourself. 

Deliveries: Your order will be delivered on the date given by a member of our team. There is a delivery charge for your order: £4 for Garden Centre/Landscaping/WinterFuels orders. A courier nationwide delivery service is available for pallet items such as bulk bags of topsoil.

A huge thank you from all the team at Lymefield Garden Centre, Farm Shop, and Tea Room for all your support and patience.

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Everyone – Spring Bulbs are here!

Spring bulbs bring seasonal appeal to any garden.

After long depressing winters, splashes of strong colour popping up around your garden can be that lift that inspires you back into life. A little work now choosing the right plants is how to achieve that spring kick.
Here is our guide (with a few tips) to what’s best in spring bulbs at Lymefield for you to buy now.
When buying your bulbs at the garden centre, try and buy as early as possible; this gives you the pick of the vast selection available. Buying early will also allow you to choose the biggest bulbs which will produce the most flowers and you can avoid buying bulbs that have already started to sprout.
Bulbs are generally quite trouble free, but always choose the right bulb for the right spot. Most bulbs need well drained soil as they are prone to rot if they sit in wet, poorly drained soil.
If you think this is the case, improving the planting area first is a good idea to avoid disappointment. To do this, introduce well rotted organic matter (manure) and/or grit.
The right planting depth is very important with your bulbs; the common mistake is to plant them too shallow. As a general rule, plant bulbs so they are buried three times their own depth. This may seem deep, but if you have ever dug out daffodil bulbs that are 4 or 5 years old they are below a spades depth.
Whatever bulb you choose, the result of colour in your garden after a cold bleak winter always brings a smile – happy planting!

Bulbs are now in the Garden Centre – ready for planting for your spring garden!

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Seven ways to increase wildlife gardening

In this blog, we look at an aspect of gardening which is relevant all year round, and that’s wildlife. Here we provide a few handy (and often overlooked) tips on how to maintain a healthy environment for wildlife to thrive in.

Grow A Variety of Plants

Shrubs, climbers, evergreen, and deciduous plants will all increase the range of visiting wildlife. The key elements of a wildlife-friendly garden are rich food sources, shelter, and safe habitat. This means that a good mix of plants and shrubs will go a long way towards helping improve these factors.

Cut Down On Chemicals

Insects are of course an important link in the food chain. Whilst at first it may seem like a good idea to rid your garden of problem insects such as slugs, snails, wasps, and aphids, this could have a detrimental effect further on in the food chain for those who may feed on them normally. It is worth considering though that organic alternatives are available in order to dispose of slugs and other pests if they are proving too much of a problem.

Think Before You Tidy

Try to disturb things in your garden as little as possible. Piles of logs, twigs, and leaves encourage insects and shelter wildlife. It is also advisable not to cut hedges until nesting birds have moved on.

Plant A Tree

Trees support a huge variety of wildlife including birds, fungi, butterflies, spiders, ants, and other invertebrates. A fully-fledged Birch Tree for example can provide a home for as many as 229 differing types of insect species.

Provide Water

With the decline of countryside ponds, this is a must. Absolutely anything that can harbour water can be used; an old washing-up bowl for example would do nicely, but of course remember to place a large rock near the side in order to allow frogs and other visitors to get back out!

Give Someone A Home

Create smaller habitats; areas of long grass, nettles, and log piles, as well as bug boxes and bird boxes, are ideal for providing cheap and cheerful homes for wildlife.

Build A Compost Heap

A valuable element in any garden, providing food to improve soil and plants, and also providing an attractive habitat for all manner of wildlife, compost heaps are not only useful for getting rid of organic waste but in turn, provide food and nutrients to the wildlife of your garden. Look out for sheltering amphibians and hedgehogs though before emptying!

All these ideas will help build up the natural biodiversity in your garden which will benefit your plants and you. Good luck!